Fine dining

Saturday, March 13, 2010


Today was a good food day.  Me Darlin' Mrs and I got up early to make it in time for a seat (two of about 10) at the Colossal Cafe.  Sunny-side up eggs, bacon, hash browns and toast were transformed from simple morning staples to new heights.  The eggs were right on, the bacon was cooked crisp with a touch of cayenne and black pepper, the hash browns were acutally hash browns, not hash tans or hash whites.  The toast was awesome; home made bread that was freakin' grilled.  Buttery, golden brown on one side and still warm and soft on the other, or as Mrs Yam said, it was toastvana, the best toast she's had in a long time.  She's a toast junkie, so if she says this is good toast, it's good toast.  This is an example of a simple meal prepared with such skill and grace that it transcends into a meal to remember.

Thusly fortified, I went to work at the liquor store.  On my way out, I asked my boss, "I'm having steak tonight, what is something that I have to try?"  Bryan, someone whom has never failed me, recommended a marvelous Cabernet Sauvignon by Ghost Pines.  The subtle tannin loomed in shadows, never announcing its presence, but you are fully aware of it nonetheless.  It tasted of blackberry and dark plum and sour cherry.  There may have been other flavors, but I think I over-seasoned the surloin to catch any other notes.

Dinner consisted of the prime dry-aged surloins, cooked on a hot cast-iron skillet au poirve style (with unfortunately too much salt), carrots with ginger sauce (see recipe below) and green beans with mushrooms and a Balsamic vinegar reduction sauce.  We also baked up a rye bread from the Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day for our fresh loaf.

We cooked the steaks in a dry skillet at 450 degrees after the skillet had been in the over with the bread for about 20 minutes.  Beforehand we made the carrots and ginger shown above:

  • 2 large carrots peeled and cut into 1/8 inch disks
  • 1 inch piece of peeled ginger diced finely
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1/4 teaspoon cayenne
  • 1/2 teaspoon mustard powder
  • 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds
  • 2 teaspoons of honey
  • 1/4 cup water
Melt the butter over medium heat and saute the ginger, mustard, cayenne and cardamom seeds until fragrant and the ginger is soft (about 5 minutes).  Add the carrots and the olive oil and turn the heat to high to cook the carrots until they start to soften (about another 5 minutes).  Add the honey and water, reduce heat to low, stir to incorporate honey into the sauce and cover and cook the carrots until they are cooked until they are mostly soft, like an al dente (about 10-12 minutes).

Meat

Monday, March 1, 2010

I'm not a vegetarian; I may not be a dedicated carnivore, but I will not deny myself meat.  Dinner to me is quite a bit different than the slab of steak and an ignored vegetable that passes for fine dining for a good deal of my Midwestern neighbors.  Typically, meat is more of a flavoring, an adjunct to the entire meal than the star.  Curries, burritos, soups, stir fries, salads, etc. will all include meat but they are not typically the main focus of the recipe or meal.

I take the ingredients with which I cook seriously, I like organic and/or heirloom vegetables and fruits not because of some esoteric desire for the good of the planet, but because they generally taste better.  They were grown with care from good stock and it shows up on the plate quite readily.  The difference between the tomatoes I grow (as an example) and the sad, hard, tasteless tomatoes found in a typical grocery store is a difference that can be measured in orders of magnitude.  And no, you're not going to find heirloom tomatoes now -- hence eating them when there plentiful.  If you can't eat them fresh, it's time to learn to can and save the flavor until the next fresh batch ripens like our ancestors did.

But I'm not here to talk about tomatoes, but good, fresh dead animal.  Flesh.  The muscles and fat of once living and thriving beings.  Being the carnivore we are.  I believe veganism is an artificial construct of a modern society, a aberrant behavior that would not normally allow its followers to survive in the wild.  It is possible to be vegetarian, if you are of the ovo-lact sect.  To be a healthy human, you need the nutrients that are available from animals or animal products.  Vitamin B12 is an example.  You can get it from meats, milk, eggs and such, or you can get it from suppliments.  If getting my nutritional needs is a choice between eating locally raised dairy and meats or from some pharmaceutical mystery plant in China, I know where I'm placing my bets...

I've ordered dry-aged, grass fed and grass finished beef from my rancher friend Brad Crabtree at Echo Lake Ranch.  I've purchased from him before and I've never been unhappy with his products.  He cares about his land, his animals and his livelihood.  Considering the cost of dry-aged beef and what it could cost you (think of the price of steaks at Manny's downtown), Brad's meat is a steal and I'm perfectly happy to have a freezer full of it for the price of four dinners at the venerable steak joint.  Granted, the cuts don't run over about 8 ounces, but who the hell can really eat a 25 ounce cut of meat (shut up, Chuck)?

More importantly than the dry-aging and the hippy farming is the fact that I know the rancher.  I trust him and I know that what I'm ordering is the realy thing.  There are no legalistic clauses such as "access to pasture."  The sheep and cows live off of the land that Brad takes care of and that land takes care of Brad and the cows and sheep.  This is real ranching without the need for fuzzy phrases;  his love of what he does and the happiness of the animals under his care are testimonial enough to show the meaning of "organic" or "grassfed" or whatever name you need to use show that quality is will show through whatever language or frame or reference you choose.

There are plenty of health benefits of eating animals that lived as they always have.  This great hunt that has developed for Omega-3 fats is silly, beef has all the Omega-3 you need.  But not just any beef, but cattle that has grazed on grass.  Cows don't eat corn and can't digest it.  The CAFO (concentrated animal feeding operation) has taken a cow and placed it into an alien environment and it shows.  These poor critters don't get excercise, fresh grass but are forced to stand around in a toxic mix of their own waste and mud, eat a corn mush full of vitamins and antibiotics (necessary due to standing around to the overcrowding and standing in their own filth).  This makes it cheaper to grow cattle, but we are starting to see the effects of this economy scale and the hidden costs are staggering.

So, I fight against it in my own lonely little way.  A handshake and a welcoming embrace from Brad and a couple of boxes of what was once a happy cow.  Butchered carefully by people not under any pressure to process a certain number a day so there are no feces-flecked walls and wounded workers.  It is more expensive, but the costs are more true to their real value.  Perhaps it is more expensive, but in the end it is a real value.  Grass-fed and grass-finished, prime, dry-aged beef for $6-$7 pound.  Compare that to upwards of $25 a pound from the grocery store.  The cattle live better, the grass grows better, Brad has a job he loves and I benefit from the happy chain.  Win-win-win-win.

It's a deal I can live with, and so can others.

Sour milk biscuits

Sunday, January 24, 2010



We've been buying our milk from local dairies and the milk is the old-fashioned non-homogenized-cream-on-top-in-the-returnable-glass-bottle milk.  This milk is noticeably richer in its mouth-feel and the flavor is an astounding leap from the cardboard carton you get from your supermarket.  This milk is still alive, an almost fleshy liquid with substance and body.

As wonderful as this is, this, ah, aliveness comes at a cost -- the milk sours fairly quickly.  It goes "bad" but it is not spoiled, it's just sour.  The lactose (milk sugar) has been consumed by the wee beasties and has been turned into lactic acid.  In other words, it has been fermented.

When it reaches this state, you can set it out on the counter until it begins to get "chunky," and then line a colander or sieve with cheese cloth, pour the glop in and save the forming curds by tying the corners of the cloth together to make a satchel and allow the whey to drain off.  The results that are left in the cheese cloth is cottage cheese.  You know what to do with that, right?

You could also take the sour milk and use it exactly as you would cultured buttermilk; you could make pancakes, bake cakes and doughnuts with it or use like I did and make biscuits.  This is the recipe that I used:
  • 2 cups flour
  • 1 cup sour milk
  • 4 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 4 tablespoons cold lard (you can use any fat you like, but make sure that it's cold)
Preheat your oven to 450 degrees.

Mix the dry ingredients together.  Put the cold shortening into the flour mix and then using a pastry knife, a pair of knives or your hands, mix the flour and fat until you get a grainy mixture and the fat is cut up to pea sized chunks.  You don't want to overwork fat and melt it, you want it cold.  Make a well in the center of the mix and add the sour milk and stir until you've combined the milk and flour into a sticky dough.  Flour a work surface, a rolling pin and your hands well and take the dough and drop on your work surface.  Work some flour into the dough by gently kneading until it gets a soft -- don't handle it too much.  Roll it out to about a 1/2 inch in thickness and fold over on itself, turn it 90 degrees and roll it out until it's again 1/2 inch thick.  Fold and repeat a couple more times.  On the last time, fold it on itself and leave it.  Now you can cut it with a biscuit cutter or I just square up the dough and cut six square biscuits to avoid waste.

Place biscuits on a baking sheet and bake for 8-10 minutes until brown.

The bread in the background is also from today's baking -- more on that later.  Let's just say that we've found a book that has changed the way I bake...

You can't shake the Devil's hand and say you were only joking

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Via Marion Nestle, I found out that the American Association of Family Physicians has taken money from none other than Coca Cola for the "development of educational materials to teach consumers how to make the right choices and incorporate the products they love into a balanced diet and a healthy lifestyle."

Wow.  So the doctors have apparently given up and are now siding with the bad guys.  "Empty calories are good for you and Coke will give us money to conduct studies to show that's true."  Are you guys going to "partner" next with the tobacco companies?  What word comes to mind...

Oh yeah, whore.

I can't think of anything else to say -- I'm just stunned.

These were sold in Ireland for a while...

Monday, October 5, 2009

...until somebody read the packaging.


Autumn has arrived...

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

...riding the mighty Northwestern winds.

It's getting to time to enjoy the fruits of our labor and gardens.  As the temperatures drop, the rains come in and fall foods start looking more and more yummy.  G'bye lettuce and hello squash.

We have been busy cooking and canning, so I apologize for the dearth of posting, but there are some pictures and commentary coming soon.  In the mean time, let me tell you about what my dear Mrs has made that completely captured me: tomato confit (cohn-fee).

Confit is a way cooking and preserving food and in this recipe (more handwaving than units, sorry) Mrs Yam has taken the tomatoes from our garden and saved them thusly:

Drizzle oil in a shallow baking pan or cookie sheet and in the oil drop fresh basil and thyme and a couple of crushed cloves of garlic.  Cut tomatoes in half and sorta swish them around in the herbs and oil and drizzle more oil over the top of the tomatoes.  Roast the tomatoes in a low oven (250F) for about three hours until the tomatoes have collapsed, but have not completely dried -- they should still be soft.  Put tomatoes and the liquid in a clean jar and it should keep in the fridge for a couple of months.

Put them over hot pasta or into salads or sandwiches.

Things I'll never buy again

Sunday, September 20, 2009

While many people strive to cook more, they only look at cooking as creating an entire meal or a large item like a loaf of bread or a cake.  Much of cooking is the mundane, the miniscule, the overlooked, the small things.  To understand how to cook, cook more.  That may sound simplistic, but it really is the crux of the matter.

Is this person familiar?  He (it's almost always a male) decides to cook a meal and now the entire household is put on notice -- "Do not enter the kitchen/backyard I'm cooking/grilling."  He then tends to make a production of creating a single meal with all the energy and activity of one of MacArthur's south sea island invasions.  Cookbooks, the right music, a glass of beer or wine,.pots and pans banging, curses thrown high and low, an emergency run to get a forgotten ingredient.  Then, after an interminable five hours or so, dinner is produced with a flourish.  This happens once a month or less, but everyone is expected to ooh and aah and deal with the false modesty of "this was just a little thing..." while others are left to clean up, of course.

Normally, he couldn't be bothered to help feed the kids, or to make something for a pot luck.  Cooking is work and the day to day can be a grind.  But with practice you gain skills and can accomplish simple tasks faster, recipes and snippets of recipes become second nature and can be prepared without thought and your preparation time really starts to drop off.

With more people trying to cook at home in an attempt to save money, you can also save a bunch on your grocery bills by not buying things that you can be easily made.  Look inside your refrigerator and tell me the number of bottles you have.  Go ahead, I'll wait.

Yup, that's a bunch.  Think of them as somewhere between $2 and $5 each and you can see where some of that lunch money went. Well, if you want to start claiming some of that money back and get some important kitchen time in, think of making what's in those bottles  yourself.

A quick list of things I'll (hopefully) never buy again:

  • salad dressing
  • soup
  • mustard
  • canned beans
Salad dressing is the place to start -- you can make what you need quickly and easily and you don't have to give up a lot of room in the fridge and when you make it when you need it, it's always fresh.  Start with a vinaigrette; this dressing is basically 3 parts oil to 1 part acid and flavorings.  Acids can be any vinegar you have handy, wine, citrus juice or any combination.  Seasonings can be as simple as salt and pepper and a bit of garlic powder.  A bit of mustard acts as an emulsifier to keep the oil and acid combined and adds some nice flavor besides.  Mix it up and serve on salads, vegetables, fish, etc.

Soup is something that you really should just make yourself.  It's a great way to use up the bits of things that are migrating to the back of the fridge and to add variety to your diet.  Soup is easy to make, just add stuff to water and simmer it.  That's all there is to it.  You needn't get crazy and make cream soups or bisques or potage du thisorthat, just cook some vegetables in simmering water, add spices and you have soup.  Add other things to keep it interesting, such as pasta or beans.  These act as thickeners besides, giving your soup a little more body.  Experiment, you'll be fine.

Mustard is something I've just started making, but simple condiment is anything but simple.  Look at all the mustards at your local grocery store!  You can start out making your own grainy style mustard by simply soaking 3 tablespoons mustard seeds with 3 tablespoons liquid (water, wine, vinegar or beer) and a crushed clove of garlic for a day and a half.  But the soaked seeds in a blender with a pinch of salt, a 2 teaspoons of honey and start blending in pulses.  Add water until you get the consistency you want.  Bang!  Whole grain German style mustard for about a quarter ($0.25).

The last one is one that I cannot stress enough -- cook your own beans.  You don't eat enough beans anyway, so learning to cook them is really important.  I tend to soak my beans, but that's not necessary.  I like to cook mine in a crock pot so I don't need to spend a lot of time with them, but you don't really need to do much with beans after you bring them to a boil except turn down the heat and cook them until they're tender.  When you have finished cooking your beans, freeze 'em with the bean water.  Add 'em to salads, put 'em in your soup, grind 'em up and make a dip out of 'em or throw 'em in with sauteed greens, garlic and lemon juice for a great side dish.  What people pay for beans makes me crazy -- for the price of a half a bag of beans, folks just bought a can of overcooked mush with some toxic canning water.  Bleah.  Make your own, ean more and save yourself a ton of cash.

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